Finding Small Japanese Bathtubs at a Discount

Small Japanese bathtubs are perfect for homes with smaller bathrooms because they are originally designed for just this purpose. Even though they take up less space, they still provide you with enough water to immerse your body in as they are nice and deep. Also known as small Ofuro bathtubs in Japan, they are now widely accepted in the West so they are easier to find now than ever before. This article will provide you with some important background on these tubs as well as some tips for finding the best one for you.

Like many furniture and fixtures in homes in Japan, small Japanese bathtubs are small and functional, providing optimal use while taking up only as much space as needed. Currently they are very popular, especially among cosmopolitan homes where westernized Asian furniture is very common. When looking to add one of these beautiful fixtures to your home you will want to try your standard bathtub showroom; if they do not carry them, they may be able to direct you to a specialty shop that deals primarily in them.

While you may use small Ofuro bathtubs for bathing if you like, in Japan they are traditionally used only for soaking and relaxing; in fact, they will shower before even entering. However you personally wish to use them, you will find that they are incredibly relaxing and stimulating. It is believed by the Japanese that these tubs will reduce stress, help lessen the strain on your heart, and even help you to maintain low blood pressure. An interesting thing about them that you should take note of is that they are built in such as way that you cannot lie down in them. Instead, they have seats so you can sit upright in a relaxed position.

Today you have more options than ever when it comes to picking out just the right small Japanese bathtubs for your home. One of the first things that you should consider, for example, is the materials your tub will be made from. Traditionally in Japan they have been made from Hinoki wood which is known for its antiseptic properties and is very unlikely to rot. These are usually more expensive though, so you may instead choose a tub that is made from more modern materials such as porcelain, copper, and stainless steel. You will find that different materials suit different home decoration themes; for example, copper provides a more rustic look while porcelain is better for homes with a modern design.

Finally, when purchasing small Japanese bathtubs, you will want to consider the size of your bathroom so you can find the tub that will best fit it. These tubs fit best in bathrooms that have high ceilings and windows so you can fill the room with sunlight.

Get The Rest You Need With A Comfortable Japanese Daybed

Millions of people suffer with bouts of insomnia and for some individuals a continual lack of sleep has become a particularly large problem in their lives. Lack of sleep can have a negative effect on how well someone performs at school or work. People who are overtired are also more likely to injure themselves while on the job and to make mistakes while driving that could lead to an accident. Many people find that getting a new bed helps them to improve their quality of sleep.

Sleep deprived individuals should consider purchasing a Japanese platform bed. Those who are having trouble sleeping may find that the Japanese daybed gives them the comfort they need to get a restful sleep. The modern daybed looks fantastic in any size bedroom, and comes in a variety of styles. Someone can purchase an affordable Japanese style bed for a few hundred dollars or spend more money on a higher quality design.

Japanese beds are perfect for people who live in small spaces, such as condominiums or city apartment buildings. The modern daybed looks fantastic in a bachelor apartment and the sleek design provides plenty of comfort without taking up too much space. A Japanese platform bed is also a great choice for a guest room. The bed will fit nicely into a small area and overnight guests will appreciate the level of comfort the Japanese bed has to offer.

A Japanese bed is much different than the traditional North American bed. It does not contain a box spring and sits much lower to the ground. Its design is extremely simplistic, which many people find refreshing. Most people find today’s hectic lifestyle to be quite overwhelming. The simply designed bedroom furniture creates the calming atmosphere that people need to relax. Many people find that Japanese designed furniture relieves stress. Some also believe that the simple bed can bring someone good luck, which may be why Japanese beds have become such a popular choice for people around the world.

Woodworking Hand Tools Needed by a Professional Furniture Maker – Part3

In this article the last of the series of three, I am talking about the last section of tools that a young apprentice cabinetmaker would need to start off their collection of handtools. In previous weeks I’ve talked about planes and chisels, marking and measuring tools and all that remains now are two areas of hand tools that have changed most for the modern European cabinet maker – those of saws and routers.

There was a time when a cabinet makers toolkit would have half a dozen hand saws. He’d have two or three back saws, dovetail saw, a tenon saw, maybe a coping saw. He would also have several long saws, a rip saw, a cross cut saw, probably a couple of panel saws sharpened in different ways. Each of these saws had a different purpose and would be used for a different part of the job. Tool catalogues were full to busting of saw companies products boasting features like breasted tooth lines and taper grinding .

All this now is no more. In the modern cabinet makers workshop the bench saw has largely been replaced either by the small machine – like the table saw or the band saw, or by the portable hand tool such as the jig saw or contractors circular saw. I don’t propose to look at power tools or machines in this article but will still concentrate on what is left, for what is left is actually quite important. It will be a sad day when a cabinet maker can’t actually pick up a saw and cut a piece of wood dead straight, trim the end of a tenon or cut a mitre just shy of the line.

But sometimes it feels like that day isn’t too far away for so much of the sawing dimensioning of components is done nowadays on the small machine. It’s so much easier to potter off away from the bench, in our case go downstairs to a machine room and buzz that little bit of wood off on the table saw. Cutting it off by hand involves effort, energy and skill. It also involves a good saw. Now it saddens me that when I look in the tool catalogue these days, the saw section which used to occupy a whole chapter is now condensed down to two or three pages but it’s still possible to buy an excellent saw , the trouble is it comes from Japan.

Here at our Shebbear workshops I must admit that we have allowed the “tools of the devil” to take over. I’ve had Japanese chisels and waterstones in my workshop for 20 or more years but Japanese saws came when Nick Chandler and I got together 4 years ago. I had never really taken to Japanese saws but many of my students have used them with great success. Basically because when I started work I was lucky enough to find myself a really good dovetail saw. This was a saw made by Roberts & Lee and fitted with an open handle. For nearly twenty years I was advising students to buy similar Roberts & Lee, Dorchester, dovetail saws. Now lots of my students bought their 8 inch and 10 inch saws with beautiful walnut handles and lovely brass backs.

They paid something approaching £50 for each saw Just recently I decided to treat myself to a new 10 inch dovetail saw. A natural choice wasn’t a Japanese rubbishy thing but the £49 Roberts & Lee, Dorchester, 590 walnut handled whizzo dovetail saw. I thought it was British and I’ve had a saw like that for over 25 years. Fair to say I unhappy with my new saw I experienced myself the disappointment I had visited upon so many of my students. The thickness of the saw plate was roughly similar to my old dovetail saw. The quality and weight of the brass back was if anything a little heavier, which is probably appropriate for a slightly longer saw. The way that the handle was fitted to the back and blade assembly was loose and sloppy. Even with the blade tightened as much as I could there was a gap of a quarter of a millimetre on either side where my old saw was tight and snug. Why in this age when such wonderful feats of engineering can be accomplished as a manner of course by robots can we not make a back saw with a decently fitting wooden handle. When it came to using the saw I was prepared for a tussle.

Dovetail saws come with a crosscut sharpening and wide set that means they don’t really function very well especially ripping dry hardwood. What with all the saws I’ve helped students set up over the years I learnt how to get these little saws running reasonably well. It involves firstly taking a cloth soaked in thinners to the blade and removing most of the gunk that manufacturers leave on the blade to protect it from rust whilst it is in the shop. Once you’ve done this it’s necessary to slightly stone off some of the set applied to the saw. A dovetail saw is a precision instrument the way these saws are set in the factory is to my mind much too coarse.

A good dovetail saw should cut a nice fine kerf and you can only achieve this by stoning off some of the set by running a fine stone down either side of the blade or as I used to do tapping the set back with a small hammer on an anvil. This can get the saw running reasonably well but what it really needs is a full re-sharpen and that’s best accomplished by taking a small saw file and filing a 90 degree to the saw blade just one stroke per tooth. I think that dovetail saws when sharpened new are sharpened in cross cut fashion when really most of the action, certainly in our workshop, a rip point seems to work much more efficiently.

Now you can be patriotic and you can go on supporting these old saw makers but there comes a day when somebody puts a saw in your hands that works so much better, costs less than half as much, you have to think why am I beating my head against this brick wall.. Perhaps I should not continue to advise you go on paying nearly £50 for British saw when there’s the Japanese equivalent for £17.79 that does the job rather better straight out of the box. But then I remember what they did to our motorcycle industry.

Now the difficulty with these Japanese saws is they require a different technique. They cut on the pull stroke whereas European saws cut on the push. But don’t they work beautifully. Two saws that seem to have found a home in our workshop are the Doutsuki-Me which seems to be the equivalent of the European dovetail saw and the professional Ryoba saw. The Doutsuki-Me saw is a very fine light back saw with a long handle which makes the control relatively straight forward. But the problem everyone had a few years ago with these saws was sharpening the wretched things. That has been overcome recently with the introduction of the replaceable blade. Nowadays the Doutsuki-Me saw is sold complete for just under £18 and a spare standard blade for just over £10. I think Nick tends to replace his saw blade maybe two or three times a year which makes this quite an expensive saw, but for the cabinetmaker this is a very important tool and one would spend whatever is necessary within reason to achieve these results .

The Ryoba saw also has a replaceable blade, but don’t confuse replaceable in this context with the cheap throw away blades found European saws. This is a saw made for the professional market. The saw has two cutting edges. The top edge has rip teeth with a finer set of teeth adjacent to the handle for starting the cut while the other edge has cross cut teeth which gives a very smooth clean cut. The centre of the blade is scraped out in the same way that old fashioned panel saws had tapered round blades this is done to help prevent the saws sticking in a deep cut. I must admit that these “tools of the devil” have taken a long time to arrive in my very conservative and chauvinistic workshop. Even given my support for the British motorcycle industry I can’t go on supporting Messrs Roberts & Lee when the design and construction of their best saws seems to have deteriorated over time rather than improved.

Now we come to routers. The second area I want to look at is the single tool that has changed cabinet making in the last 25 years – that of the router. I must admit that I hate routers. Not for what it’s done to cabinet making but for the bloody noise and mess they make. They are filthy tools that create a fine dust that covers the whole workshop in brown snow and admit a scream that would drive a Methodist to drink. As far as I’m concerned the only good router’s a dead router. However they are incredibly useful. A router is essentially a small portable machine centre, infinitely versatile, used in a myriad of ways depending on your tooling and ingenuity. We have five routers in the shop at the moment and probably two are in if not constant then in intermittent use most of the time

The most useful is a small router and I think the small router would be the only I would recommend a beginner to buy first. The large router is a bit of a brute but eventually you will need a large router as well as a small one. Of the small routers today available on the market the choice in the professional workshop seems to be between the Dewalt DW6201K and the Trend T5. Both these routers have variable speed and a proven track record. I think the Dewalt weighs in at £212 while the Trend costs £159 including a metal box. I think if I were buying a new router today I would probably go for the Trend T5 but then this is because it’s so similar to my old Elu router that I would feel at home and comfortable with it.

A new router in the larger category which found a place in our affections most recently is the Freud FT2000VCE. This is a half inch router with loads of grunt but it comes equipped with a very accurate and nice to use fine depth adjuster which makes it very useful for fitting underneath a router table. This is one of the major uses in this workshop of this kind of big router. This place isn’t really the place to discuss the merit of each particular model of router. One point I would like to stress is the way a small hand held router usually with a quarter inch collet has really become a key hand tool in the cabinet makers tool box. Rather than filling his tool box with half sets of molding planes, the young cabinet maker will be gathering together assorted set of router bits of different sizes and shapes and qualities.

Our toolkit series is complete but this is just the start of the process of assembling your set of tools . It seems to me that the professional is always seeking to have the best tools available not the most tools. We always seem to seek to replace that irritating plane with a better one or with something that will do the job better. Like a better dovetail saw.

Woodworking Hand Tools Needed By A Person Who Wants To Become A Professional Furniture Maker Part2

This month we will be looking at chisels and marking and measuring tools. A few years ago now for another magazine I did a test of all of the brands of chisels available in the cabinet makers bevel edged pattern. The objective was to find the best branded chisel for apprentice cabinet makers. In doing this I found out that although chisels vary enormously in the quality of their grinding, the shape and the quality of the handles. However most of the manufactures are using a very similar grade of steel so the edge holding capacity of certainly European made chisels were very similar. What we did learn at this time was that if you move away from the European kind of chisel to the Japanese chisel it was possible to gain an edge holding capacity that would outlast the European chisel by 4 or 5 times. The disadvantage of going to Japanese is that they are made from a slightly more brittle steel but if one is careful in the way one uses them this wouldn’t seem to be a too great a disadvantage. However a slightly more serious disadvantage is the fact that re-sharpening a Japanese chisel takes a good deal longer than sharpening a European one. This is because the edge was made from a much harder steel and requires much greater care in sharpening.

So you pays your money and you takes your choice. If you get a European type pattern chisel you may well be sharpening the edge 4 or 5 times more frequently than the owner of a Japanese pattern chisel but sharpening tools shouldn’t be a big deal, it should be something that should be accomplished as a natural part of the rhythm of working. You work paring away at that tough bit of Maple for 15 – 20 – 25 minutes then your concentration goes and the natural way to restore it is a gentle walk down to the sharpening bench – strop, strop one side and strop, strop the other side, change stones, strop strop one side and strop, strop the other and you’re back again to work. Sharpening is good for you.

You are going to need a set of chisels that go down less than 1/8 th inch to approximately 11/2 inches. Especially in the small sizes you are going to need all of the chisels in as many variations in width as you can get. This is because one chisel may not fit in that dovetail opening while another one will. This can be best achieved by buying one set of chisels in say imperial measure (fractions of an inch) and then buying chisels that fill in the sizes between these in metric measure. Look at the way the chisel is ground. One of the features of the chisel is the way the back of the chisel is bevelled or cut back to lighten the blade. This really should go right down as close as possible to the flat back of the chisel. Imagine the difficulty of paring into a dovetail socket with a chisel that didn’t do this (and many of them don’t, with many chisels the bevelling is just a decorative effect rather than a useful property). Look also at the way the handle is fixed on to the blade and look at the size of handles. Many manufacturers these days are fitting one size of handle onto both small and large blades making the tools unbalanced and unwieldy. My personal preference is for wooden handle chisels that are not covered with a slippery plastic lacquer. Coming down to specific recommendations. I think of the Europeans pattern chisel I would recommend the Sorby 167 series. These are available from 1/8th inch up to 1 1/2 inches and cost between £18.82 for the smallest up to £25.74 for the largest. Of the Japanese I would recommend the “Umeki-Nomi.” These are very well bevelled chisels in fact they are often called dovetail chisels well made without being too expensive and available in 3mm, 6 mm, 9mm and 12 mm. Axminster power tools stock these at prices from £26 these chisels like most Japanese chisels have hollows ground into the flat backs to help with the fettling or preparation process.

Paring chisels are usually ground at a slightly finer angle and never used with a mallet. I have a pair of very beautiful Japanese paring chisels, one of 25 mm in width and a second of 35 mm width. These are extremely beautifully well balanced tools with long red oak handles but sadly I can’t find a supplier in the UK who can provide similar chisels for my students but I think they are available from the Garrett Wade catalogue. I hesitate to recommend a European pattern paring chisel because it takes too long to flatten the backs of a wide, long chisel. This is where the Japanese pattern with the hollow back scores so strongly. Sharpening your chisels you’ll need a Japanese waterstone. “King” make a very good 1200 grit stone at about £10.50 and I would also recommend buying a “King” finishing stone of 6000 grit. This will cost you £17.20. You can get a finer 8000 grit stone but I don’t think I would recommend this.

Now I will move on to marking and measuring tools. These are essential bits of equipment. First lets look at rules. This isn’t an imperial measure workshop and we are going to ask you to convert from feet and inches and start thinking in millimetres. Once you get used to it you’ll find it a much easier way of measuring out jobs. Buy rules with clear measurements that are engraved into the surface of the rule. There are lots of rules with metric and imperial measure but the best rule we’ve found is in metric only and it is produced by Stanley and is their metric 47R Range. These rules are available in 150 mm, 300 mm, 600 mm, and 1 metre and range in price between £4.04p and £23.01p. Please try to avoid cheap rules and avoid those rules that have metric and imperial and half millimetre graduations. These rules just tend to confuse. I would think to start with I would buy a 1 metre, a 300 mm and a 150 mm and later get a 600 mm. Measuring tapes are also useful for rough measuring out on boards and as long as it’s reasonably accurate any type of tape will do the job.

For marking knives we have taken to using Swann Morton Scalpels – there are several different kinds of handles and the blades are easily replaceable. This is after years of using specialist marking knives with the bevel on one side. Perhaps it’s my eyesight failing but I find the scalpel gives a cleaner crisper line to work to. You’ll need probably two marking gauges and two cutting gauges. “Crown” make quite nice small gauges and the Joseph Marples No.2 gauge is a well made simple gauge. One of the nicest gauges is the Veritas wheel marking gauge. This is quite a costly item at £15.08p and I probably wouldn’t spend that kind of money myself but it does look a very nice tool. If you didn’t want to buy the Veritas I may go for the Axminster Superior Marking Gauge at £8.64 made in Rosewood with brass fittings.

For mortice gauges you really do need to spend over £20 to buy a precision piece of equipment usually in Rosewood with brass fittings. You may find a good one second-hand but if you don’t then look at the Crown 154 Mortice Gauge at £21 or the Axminster Power Tools Superior Mortice Gauge at £28.55.

Along with gauges, rules, and marking out you need two engineers squares. I recommend an all metal engineers square because there are a large number of wooden handled tri-squares around that are just not quite accurate enough for cabinet making. You are going be needing a degree of accuracy in your marking out that will just not be achievable if you have a traitorous little instrument like a square that wasn’t quite square in your tool kit. Go for a high quality engineers square with BS939 engraved on the body of the square. This will guarantee that it’s been checked to a level of accuracy that you require. If you can check the square in the tool shop before you buy it against a higher grade of engineers square called an “inspectors grade square” or alternatively against a surface plate with a bottle gauge fitted on it. If the shop don’t have these instruments to test your squares they shouldn’t be selling the squares, go somewhere else. I would suggest that you buy a small 3 inch square which will cost about £17 and a larger 6 inch square which will cost about £21. You can if you are feeling very wealthy, go for a 9 inch square rather than a 6 inch square but that will cost you £45 or so. Another tool you are going to require is a bevelled straight edge. This is a piece of steel usually between 800 mm and 1000 mm in length used for cutting veneers and checking the flatness of timber and tools. It’s an important piece of equipment and you should buy the very best one you can afford. We’ve seen some bevelled straight edges coming from Axminster Power Tools that have been relatively inexpensive of between £15-£18 but the straightness has been rather dubious and we have had to have one edge re-machined by our local engineer. Checking and re-machining this tool could become an annual event unless you spend considerably more money and buy an engineers quality straight edge in the first place. That is if you can find one. My only source at the moment is the Garrett Wade catalogue.

You will need two sets of drill bits one set to cover the entire range of holes to be drilled from 1mm to 13mm. this is usually in a boxed set of “Jobbers” type and are available in increments of 0.2mm I think that to start I would be content with 0.5mm size increments. The other type of drills to get are a set of lip and spur pattern bits which are good at cutting clean accurate holes. This is the second of a series of articles published in Good Woodworking magazine by David Savage in August 2000. parts 1 and 3 are also available here, just down load and use them but please credit the author.

What is Fitted Bedroom Furniture?

Fitted bedroom furniture is designed to get optimal results from available space. You will often see cabinets aligned across the walls from the ceilings down to the floor. Beds will have under dressers. Like fitted bedroom furniture the Asian furnishing is known for simplistic designs and spacious living areas. Both styles are unique and have made there place in society. I will explain more.

Fitted bedroom furniture has three designs they are; full carcass. Front frame and fitted slider. The full carcass parts include top bottom, two sides and a backing. This design runs from ceiling to floor.

The next fitted bedroom furniture design is the front frame. It consists of a base without side and back panels. It runs ceiling to floor and wall to wall. The last is fitted sliders. It’s designed like the carcass except it doesn’t have a back panel. It goes ceiling to floor from wall to wall with sliding doors.

Asian bedroom furniture is known for simple styles and spacious living area. You can purchase this beautiful oriental de

cor on the web. To continue the theme you should know about accessories and why they are used.

The Chinese decorate with symbols that bring health happiness, luck and energy. Buddha and Quan Yin are two. They bring chi power to your home. The Chinese favor bronze and jade, but you purchase them in different stones.

Another is the Chinese dragon it brings chi power and keeps evil spirits away. Money toads are created with jade or agate they represent fortune and good luck through hard work and intelligence. They bring riches and prosperity into your home. Crystal globe brings a healthier mind and body, often used to cure. When the sunlight hits the globe color beams are produced. This activates chi energy and stops illness.

The Japanese focus on space. Often you will find the room separated by shoji screens. This gives room’s different shape and purpose. These screens are made of rice paper usually decorated with lively colors and symbols.

The Japanese use lanterns to decorate. The shape of the lanterns resembles strength and substance. It is made from either rice paper or silk which allows large amounts of light to shine through and display the image on the lantern. They are a great touch to add to Asian bedroom furniture.

Fitted bedroom furniture optimizes space and is a great way to organize. Asian bedroom furniture is breath taking. By adding statues, screens or lanterns you too can have a beautiful oriental theme.